Sunday, November 9, 2008

Oaxaca, Mexico

Our week-long trip to Oaxaca, Mexico was a welcome respite from life in Quetzaltenango, despite my fondness for our adopted city here in Guatemala. Oaxaca had all the historical and architectural appeal of Guatemala's beautiful Antigua, but with a much cleaner, livelier façade. Oaxaca is more than twice Quetzaltenango's size and "el centro" was buzzing with both tourists and locals the entire time we were there. The streets were clean and the air clear and fresh - there were no buses belching out black smoke like there are in Xela. This first picture shows a small area of a street out front of Santo Domingo, a large church in the "centro" area.

This picture shows Kira, Greg, and me in our Day of the Dead masks that we made with plaster at the Instituto Cultural where we studied Spanish all week. The Centro Cultural was beautiful, and we learned a lot about the differences in expression between Mexican and Guatemalan Spanish. We also used our masks in a small Day of the Dead parade organized by the Instituto, carving a large rectangular route out of the surrounding neighborhood with our procession of musicians, giant dancing figurines, and dozens of masked participants.

The night of October 31st we visited three different cemeteries in Oaxaca to mark the Day of the Dead. The cemeteries were filled with people in a festive vigil atmosphere, each tomb surrounded by family and covered with candles and the traditional Day of the Dead flowers. The surrounding streets were thronged with people, vendors, carnival games and rides, and the also very traditional sand portraits (click on the album link on the right-hand side of the page to check out a lot more photos). Overall it was an incredible atmosphere and I, for one, was impressed by the beautiful traditions that I was experiencing for the first time; traditions unknown in the US.








I think it was our second day in Oaxaca when we went to visit the Zapoteca ruins at Monte Alban. The impressive ruins date back to around 800B.C. We spent a few hours there being led around by a redundant tour guide who had the habit of describing something in Spanish and then reiterating the easiest of cognates in English (like "destrucción" to "destruction"), exacerbating an already tedious process. The ruins themselves were emormous and extremely impressive, and more pictures are again in my albums on Picasa (click the link on the right).

Overall, Oaxaca was amazing, and since the US dollar is worth about 12.5 Pesos, I recommend that everyone eventually visit there. At touristy spots the people usually even speak enough English that you could get by :-). I definitely plan to go back one day.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Nueva Alianza Organic Coffee Farm

A couple weeks back (yeah, I haven't been so consistent with blogging lately) we visited an organic coffee farm about 2 hours from Quetzaltenango called Nueva Alianza. The farm is run by 40 families who have worked on the farm for decades but have only recently taken control of the place themselves after their former boss barkrupted the farm. Soon they must begin paying back 1.5 million that they were loaned to form their cooperative and buy the farm, so they have been scrambling in recent years to increase production, put the organic stamp on their coffee and macadamia nuts, and improve quality (to get a better price for their product). So far, they have managed to get their macadamias to a "gourmet" rating, with the coffee one step below. Not only that, they have solicited and received grants from numerous national and international organizations that they have used to begin self-sustainable, income-producing, and non-polluting projects within the lands of the farm itself. These include water purification facilities to bottle and sell pure water, a hydroelectric power facility, a bamboo furniture-making business, and their own small biodiesel production center for the community vehicles. It's actually pretting amazing what they have invested in and how smart they have been, not only in regards to reducing their environmental impact, but in planning for their own self-sustainability in the long term.

My favorite part of the trip was our hike to the large waterfall on the farm property. We climbed way up into it and it was the most fun I had had up to that point in the trip.

Biodiesel Production

Sunset from the "Hotel Agro-Ecoturistico"

The shelling, sorting and rinsing of the coffee beans

Coffee bean vat. Bad beans float.

Me picking coffee

James and I in the big waterfall

Crazy kids!

Me, Kira